Jaroslav Sokol · Carretera Austral, Patagonia · day 3 of the expedition
Read by a synthetic voice.
Laguna San Rafael, Aysén region, Chile. A wall of ice as tall as a fifteen-story building.
The boat slowed. The engine cut out.
All I could hear was the water lapping against the hull. And my own breath. Before us, a blue that exists in no palette. A wall of ice, fifteen stories high, slowly cracking into itself.
The guide said: "Now a moment of silence. The glacier is speaking."
Everyone fell quiet. Waiting.
After four minutes, the first piece of ice broke off, the size of a car. It fell for three seconds through silence. Then it struck the water, loud as a gunshot. The second came five minutes later. Nobody counted the third.
I had never seen anything like it in my life. I sat in the zodiac and realized one thing.
In Prague, decisions are made loudly. Here it is the other way around. The quiet laws of nature govern this place.
I am seeing something my children will probably never see. This wall of ice has stood here for thousands of years. And every year it is fifty meters smaller. The glacier stays silent, melts, and slowly reshapes the land beneath it as it goes.
Every so often I send an email about what is happening in Aysén, new articles like this one, and chapters of Václav Nový's memoirs, which I translate from the Spanish. When places open on an expedition, I'll mention it in one line. Nothing else.
Thank you. You'll hear from me from Aysén.
Two emails a month at most. One-click unsubscribe. Your address is never shared, privacy policy.
San Rafael Glacier: The Day the Glacier Spokeyou are here
We use essential cookies for site functionality. With your consent, we also use analytics (Google Analytics 4) and ads measurement (Google Ads). See our Privacy Policy and Cookie Policy.